Taxim ***

Situated at the 1500th block of Milwaukee Ave, is Taxim; one of Wicker Park's newest misfits.  If not for the large hookahs perched above the host's stand, or the extravagant bronze tabletops and the plush velvet pillows backing the surrounding benches, Taxim (pronounced 'tax-seem') could easily be mistaken for a Greek Orthodox Church.  With its Cathedral style ceiling structures, rustic medieval light fixtures, and the impressive center display reminiscent of an alter, it's only a matter of time before you start praising executive chef and owner David Schneider on his skillful contemporary Greek menu.

In an attempt to expand people's perceptions of regional Greek cuisine, when David Schneider compiled his seasonal menu featuring seven small cold plates, eight small hot plates, and seven main entrees, he made a conscious effort to leave out (among other traditional dishes), the typical lamb gyros, and the predictable fried "saganaki", opting instead for "htapodaki" a.k.a. tender wood grilled octopus tossed with sweet caramelized red onions and the pastourma rubbed "duck gyro" prepared with the utmost attention, lightly seasoned with cinnamon, delicately tucked into a warm Pontian satz wrap, and drizzled with mint yogurt. Without exaggeration, it tasted like nothing else on earth.

Duck Gyro

Htapodaki- Wood Grilled Octopus

Our server directed our attention to the fabulous wine list that looked to be about three times the size of the regular menu if you can imagine that. Mark, our server, was so helpful; vividly describing what grape varietal each wine producing region of Greece was most famous for; what the temperate climates of each were like, the overall level of acidity, and unique flavors of Greek grapes. I was pleased to find that both he and our table shared the same preference for drier red wines so we went with the 2007 Tsantali “Metoxi” Cabernet Sauvignon, Limnio from Mount Athos.  Mark's only downfall was that he failed to mention that our selection was not one of the selected bottles to be included in the Monday special (50 percent off selected bottles of wine). Though we coughed up an additional $30 dollars, it was money well spent, because the wine was the perfect complement to what would come. It was a powerful, medium to full bodied wine that had a softening aftertaste as the night progressed.
 

 Though the "duck gyro" was the table favorite, the "paidakia me pligouri" a.k.a. "the lamb chops" were as succulent and juicy as could be; served with almond currant bulgur wheat pilaf, and marinated pepper salad.  Seafood lovers can feast their appetites on the "dodekanisiotiko pilafi me melani soupias"; think ample amounts wild Atlantic prawns, mussels, cuttlefish rubbed in a spicy tomato sauce, then accompanied with flavorful southeastern Aegean pilaf of inked basmati rice which was loaded with unidentifiable seasonings. The oven-roasted half chicken was anything but Falstaff; meaning half a chicken is really what you get people! Anything but simple; this dish is heavily infused with wild Greek oregano, and fresh savory; served with roasted fingerling potatoes.

Atlantic Prawns, Mussels, Cuttlefish, Aegean Basmati Rice

Half a Chicken

Believe it or not, we all managed to save some room for dessert, even after our royal feast. Upon Mark's recommendation, we ordered the "boughatsa"; a freshly baked phyllo pastry stuffed with creamy lemon custard, drizzled with honey, lightly garnished with powder sugar, served with two lemons on the side and four forks putting us to the challenge! The "boughatsa" was perfect in size, warm in the center, not too sweet or tart, and is closely related to the "dutch baby pancake"

Boughatsa